Tudor Pelagos FXD "US Navy" automatic 42 mm Full Set 2023

The story

Since the 1950s, Tudor’s history has been written largely beneath the waves. In 1954, the Geneva-based brand unveiled its first dive watch, the Submariner ref. 7922, marking the beginning of a long adventure in the professional diving world. Its robustness and legibility soon caught the attention of military forces around the world — most notably the U.S. Navy, always in search of reliable tools for its elite divers.

From 1958 onward, Tudor watches were officially adopted by the U.S. Navy after undergoing a series of demanding tests. Stripped of any ornamentation, these watches became mission instruments, worn by clearance divers, combat swimmers, and special units. Among the most iconic models of that era, the Submariner ref. 7016 of the 1960s remains instantly recognizable, with its distinctive Snowflake hands and fixed bars designed to withstand the extreme stress of underwater operations.

More than sixty years later, Tudor pays tribute to this military heritage with the Pelagos FXD “U.S. Navy” ref. 25717N — a contemporary reinterpretation of these historic “MilSubs.” Its very name, FXD for “Fixed lugs,” recalls the solid bars that defined issued military watches. Designed in direct collaboration with SEAL Team Six, this black-titanium version reconnects with the spirit of the originals: a tool watch built to serve, engineered in every detail for professionals of the sea.

Unveiled in September 2023 at Panama City Beach, Florida, during an event held at the U.S. Navy Experimental Diving Unit, the Pelagos FXD U.S. Navy goes far beyond a simple visual tribute. It represents the continuation of a decades-long partnership between Tudor and military divers, where performance, precision, and reliability always outweigh prestige.

True to the brand’s philosophy, this watch doesn’t seek to replicate the past but to extend it. Modern, understated, and profoundly authentic, it exemplifies Tudor’s unique ability to blend heritage and innovation — a purpose-built instrument ready to write its own chapter in the long history of military diving.

The model

Inspired by the issued watches worn by U.S. Navy combat divers in the late 1960s, the Tudor Pelagos FXD U.S. Navy ref. 25717N continues directly from the Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale launched in 2021. While the first paid tribute to the French Navy, this new interpretation dives into American history with a more sober, technical, and stealthy approach. Crafted entirely from grade 2 titanium, it combines strength, lightness, and corrosion resistance — essential qualities for a professional tool designed for extreme environments.

Its 42 mm case features solid, fixed bars machined directly into the middle case — the signature “FXD” (Fixed lugs) — ensuring absolute durability. Fully satin-brushed with no polished surfaces, it displays a matte finish that minimizes reflections, staying true to the military watch ethos.

The unidirectional titanium bezel is topped with a sand-blasted black ceramic insert, graduated over 60 minutes and filled with Super-LumiNova X1, the most advanced luminous compound to date. This new version adopts the unidirectional rotation requested by SEAL Team Six, now compliant with the ISO 6425:2018 standard for professional dive watches.

The matte-black dial ensures flawless legibility: large luminous hour markers and Tudor’s hallmark Snowflake hands contrast against the crisp white typography. A single touch of color — the red “Pelagos” inscription — offers a discreet nod to vintage military markings. The overall impression is one of purpose and precision, faithful to the pure tool-watch spirit of the brand.

Inside ticks the in-house MT5602 caliber, developed and assembled by Tudor in Le Locle. COSC-certified, it delivers a 70-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800 vph. Its variable-inertia balance is secured by a full traversing bridge for superior stability, while the silicon balance spring ensures resistance to magnetism and temperature changes. In typical Tudor fashion, the finishing is functional yet refined, with bead-blasted bridges and a skeletonized tungsten rotor.

Protected by a flat sapphire crystal, the case guarantees 200 meters of water resistance — more than enough for professional diving missions.

On the wrist, comfort is ensured by a forest-green fabric strap with a central red stripe, featuring a Velcro-type fastening system that allows instant adjustment even over a wetsuit. An additional one-piece black rubber strap with a woven-texture motif completes the set, in keeping with the military tradition of providing alternate field straps.

Entirely purpose-driven, this Pelagos FXD leaves nothing superfluous. Every element follows a functional logic — maximum visibility, strength, comfort, and lightness. Neither nostalgic nor ostentatious, it embodies Tudor’s contemporary vision of the military watch: a professional instrument before all else.

Two souls, one mission: Marine Nationale vs U.S. Navy

Though the Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale and the Pelagos FXD U.S. Navy share the same technical foundation — a 42 mm monobloc titanium case, fixed lugs, and the MT5602 manufacture movement — their philosophies subtly diverge.
The Marine Nationale version, unveiled in 2021, featured a matte-blue dial and a bidirectional countdown bezel designed for underwater navigation exercises carried out by French commando divers. The U.S. Navy edition, on the other hand, takes a more classic operational approach: a unidirectional bezel that meets the ISO 6425 standard, optimized for diving, paired with a sand-blasted black ceramic insert for a more tactical and understated look.
Another key distinction lies in the caseback: unlike the Marine Nationale’s engraved anchor and “MN” initials, the U.S. Navy version remains unmarked — a nod to historical U.S. military issues, where sterile casebacks reinforced their pure-instrument character.

The package

This Tudor Pelagos FXD U.S. Navy ref. 25717N comes in excellent overall condition after a full inspection by our workshop, including movement control, water-resistance testing, and careful case refinishing.

It is delivered with its original box, manual, both straps — the green fabric with red stripe and the black rubber strap — and its Tudor warranty card dated 2023.

Covered by Tudor’s five-year international warranty, this Pelagos FXD is protected until 2028 — offering its future owner the peace of mind of a recently manufactured timepiece, thoroughly inspected and ready to take to the sea once again.