Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM automatic Yellow Gold USM dial steel bracelet 37 mm

DEFY Chronograph USM: A Tribute to Swiss Design

In 1969, Zenith marked a double milestone in its history: on one hand, the launch of the legendary El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph, and on the other, the introduction of the Defy, a sports watch nicknamed “the vault” for its robustness and revolutionary angular design. Two icons were born in the same year, each carrying an avant-garde spirit, but never before united in a single creation.

It is precisely this “what if?” that served as the starting point for the Zenith × USM capsule. What if the 1969 Defy had been conceived from the outset as an El Primero chronograph? And what if its aesthetics had intersected with those of USM Haller, the modular furniture system designed by architect Fritz Haller in the same decade, which has since become an absolute reference in Swiss industrial design?

From this exercise in alternate history emerges the DEFY Chronograph USM, a watch that never existed in the archives, yet feels as though it has always been there. By blending the geometric rigor of USM furniture with Zenith’s horological avant-garde, it embodies a shared vision: that of a functional, timeless, and forward-looking design that transcends decades without ever losing relevance.

Produced in just 60 examples per color, this limited edition does more than commemorate the golden age of Swiss creativity—it extends it, breathing new life into the free and daring spirit of the 1960s.

Retro-Futuristic Design

At first glance, the DEFY Chronograph USM Golden Yellow seems to spring straight from the creative effervescence of the late 1960s. Its 37 mm stainless steel case, faithful to the proportions of the original Defy, reprises the singular codes that earned the collection its “vault” nickname: a bold octagonal silhouette, a fourteen-sided bezel, and faceted edges that resonate with the geometric rigor of USM Haller furniture. The subtle alternation of brushed surfaces and polished bevels highlights the volumes and enhances the play of light.

The pump-style pushers, typical of chronographs from that era, reinforce the retro spirit of the piece while preserving its compact and sporty look. With water resistance guaranteed to 100 meters, this Defy combines sturdiness with elegance, true to the model’s original vocation: a watch built to last, in both material and style.

It is equipped with the legendary stainless steel “ladder” bracelet, created in 1969 by Gay Frères, whose open-worked links provide incomparable comfort. This airy construction, now a hallmark of the Defy, directly recalls the structural language of USM furniture: an architecture that is clear, rational, and timeless.

But it is the Golden Yellow dial that gives this limited edition its full personality. Intense, radiant, and vibrant, this solar yellow draws from USM’s historic chromatic palette and infuses the watch with a luminous energy. Applied square indexes with horizontal striations emphasize the architectural dimension of the design, while the three silver-toned, azuré-finished subdials, framed in metal, subtly echo the spherical handles of USM modules.

Finally, as a nod to the collaboration, the central chronograph seconds hand ends with a miniature luminous USM sphere. More than a decorative flourish, it encapsulates the spirit of the project: a serious and precise creation, yet animated by a playful sense of design and a shared drive for innovation.

El Primero 400 Movement

At the heart of the DEFY Chronograph USM beats the El Primero 400 calibre, a movement whose history is inseparably tied to Zenith and the evolution of modern watchmaking. Launched in 1969, the El Primero was the first high-frequency automatic chronograph ever produced in series. With its cadence of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), it allowed time to be measured to a tenth of a second, establishing a new standard of precision that remains a benchmark to this day.

The calibre 400, a direct descendant of the original 3019 PHC, preserves this legendary architecture: automatic winding, column wheel, horizontal clutch, and a subdial layout instantly recognizable to enthusiasts. It offers hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph with 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, central chronograph hand, as well as a discreet date display at 4:30. Its 55-hour power reserve ensures comfort in daily wear.

Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, the movement reveals meticulous finishing: Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and on the oscillating weight, the latter openworked into the shape of the Zenith star. For this special edition, the rotor is also adorned with Zenith and USM logos, symbolizing the union of two Swiss worlds bound by shared values: precision, rigor, and timeless design.

More than just a movement, the El Primero 400 is a true mechanical icon. By integrating it for the first time into the Defy Revival case, Zenith has created a hybrid object that never existed in the past, but which now feels as though it has found its natural home.

Highlights

Limited to just sixty examples, the DEFY Chronograph USM Golden Yellow stands out as a rare and precious creation. It symbolizes the alliance of two Swiss icons, Zenith and USM, united by a shared pursuit of precision, functionality, and timeless design. For the very first time, the El Primero calibre finds its place inside the Defy Revival case, giving rise to a watch that extends the brand’s heritage in a natural way.

Its unique aesthetics combine the robust 37 mm octagonal case and fourteen-sided bezel with the retro refinement of pump pushers and the fluid elegance of the Gay Frères ladder bracelet. The bold, radiant Golden Yellow dial makes this piece shine, underlining its distinctly contemporary character. Every detail, from the chronograph hand tipped with a luminous USM sphere to the furniture-inspired dial elements, tells the story of the meeting between watchmaking and industrial design.

Presented in an exclusive USM Haller chest, conceived as a genuine modular furniture unit, the watch transcends its status as a simple timekeeper to become a manifesto: a celebration of 1960s creativity and Swiss excellence, reinvented for today.