Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM automatic Gentian Blue USM dial steel bracelet 37 mm

DEFY Chronograph USM: A Tribute to Swiss Design

In 1969, Zenith marked a double turning point in its history: on one side, the launch of the legendary El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph, and on the other, the introduction of the Defy, a sports watch nicknamed “the vault” for its robustness and revolutionary angular design. Two icons were born in the same year, each carrying an avant-garde spirit, but never before united in a single creation.

It is precisely this “what if?” that served as the starting point for the Zenith × USM capsule. What if the 1969 Defy had been conceived from the outset as an El Primero chronograph? And what if its aesthetics had intersected with those of USM Haller, the modular furniture system designed by architect Fritz Haller during the same decade, which has since become an absolute reference in Swiss industrial design?

From this exercise in alternate history emerges the DEFY Chronograph USM, a watch that never existed in the archives, yet feels as though it has always been there. By blending the geometric rigor of USM furniture with Zenith’s horological avant-garde, it embodies a shared vision: that of a functional, timeless, and forward-looking design that transcends decades without ever losing relevance.

Produced in just 60 examples per color, this limited edition does more than commemorate the golden age of Swiss creativity—it extends it, breathing new life into the free and daring spirit of the 1960s.

Retro-Futuristic Design

At first glance, the DEFY Chronograph USM Gentian Blue seems straight out of the creative effervescence of the late 1960s. Its 37 mm stainless steel case, faithful to the proportions of the original Defy, reprises the singular codes that earned the collection its “vault” nickname: a bold octagonal silhouette, a fourteen-sided bezel, and faceted edges that resonate with the geometric rigor of USM Haller furniture. The alternating brushed surfaces and polished bevels accentuate the volumes and elevate the play of light.

The pump-style pushers, faithful to chronographs of the 1960s, underscore the retro character of the piece without compromising its compact, sporty allure. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the watch combines sturdiness with refinement, true to the Defy’s original vocation: to offer a timepiece built to endure both time and trends.

The whole ensemble rests on the iconic stainless steel “ladder” bracelet, designed in 1969 by Gay Frères, whose open-worked links ensure unmatched comfort. This airy architecture, which has since become a signature in its own right, echoes USM’s structural language: a design that is both rational and iconic.

Yet it is on the Gentian Blue dial that the identity of this limited edition is fully expressed. Deep, vibrant, and instantly recognizable, this blue, emblematic of the USM palette, gives the watch a presence that is both bold and sophisticated. Applied square markers with horizontal grooves reinforce the architectural dimension of the design, while the three silver-toned, azuré-finished subdials, framed in metal, subtly evoke the spherical handles of USM furniture.

Finally, true to the spirit of the collaboration, the central chronograph seconds hand ends with a miniature luminous USM sphere. More than a simple detail, this subtle nod encapsulates the very philosophy of the project: a serious and precise creation that never forgets to invite a touch of playfulness and creativity.

El Primero 400 Movement

At the heart of the DEFY Chronograph USM beats the El Primero 400 calibre, a movement whose history is inseparably tied to Zenith and the evolution of modern watchmaking. Launched in 1969, the El Primero was the first high-frequency automatic chronograph ever produced in series. With its 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), it allowed time to be measured to a tenth of a second, setting a new standard of precision that remains a benchmark even today.

The calibre 400, a direct descendant of the original 3019 PHC, preserves this legendary architecture: automatic winding, column wheel, horizontal clutch, and a subdial layout that is instantly recognizable. It offers hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph with 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, central chronograph hand, as well as a discreet date window at 4:30. Its 55-hour power reserve ensures ease of use in daily wear.

Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, the movement reveals meticulous finishing: Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and on the oscillating weight, which is openworked into the Zenith star. For this special edition, the rotor is also adorned with the Zenith and USM logos, symbolizing the union of two Swiss worlds bound by shared values: precision, rigor, and timeless design.

More than just a movement, the El Primero 400 is a true mechanical icon. By integrating it for the first time into the Defy Revival case, Zenith has created a hybrid object that never existed in the past but now feels as though it has found its natural home.

Highlights

Limited to just sixty pieces worldwide, the DEFY Chronograph USM Gentian Blue stands as a piece of true distinction. More than a watch, it embodies the meeting of two emblematic Swiss universes: Zenith’s horological avant-garde and USM’s timeless modular design. Together, they have given life to a creation that, for the first time, brings the legendary El Primero movement into the Defy Revival case.

Its aesthetics combine the raw strength of the 37 mm octagonal case and fourteen-sided bezel with the retro finesse of pump pushers and the unique flow of the Gay Frères ladder bracelet. Every element tells a story, from the chronograph seconds hand tipped with a luminous USM sphere to the furniture-inspired dial architecture. Finally, the piece is delivered in an exclusive USM Haller chest, a genuine modular furniture unit designed to house watches while blending seamlessly into a contemporary design environment. More than a timepiece, it becomes a manifesto piece, standing at the crossroads of two Swiss legacies.