Zenith El Primero A386 automatic circa 1969/1970

The Story

In 1969, while the whole world was looking up to the stars and the race for space conquest, another, quieter but equally symbolic competition was unfolding: the race to create the first automatic chronograph in history. Three contenders faced off: the Heuer–Breitling–Buren–Dubois Depraz consortium with its secret “Project 99” (the future Caliber 11), Seiko in Japan with its Caliber 6139, and Zenith, working alone in the quiet mountains of Le Locle.

Zenith’s project had begun as early as 1962, with a clear goal: to present an automatic chronograph for the manufacture’s centenary in 1965. The challenge was immense — it wasn’t just about adding a chronograph module to an automatic movement, but about designing an integrated caliber that was compact, reliable, and precise. The engineers spent more than five years meeting this challenge, and when Zenith unveiled the result in January 1969, the world discovered an extraordinary movement: the El Primero caliber.

The first of its kind, it beat at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, allowing measurement to the tenth of a second — an unprecedented feat. Equipped with a column wheel, a ball-bearing rotor, and an innovative lubrication system, it combined performance, refinement, and robustness. Where its competitors opted for modular architectures or slower frequencies, the El Primero stood out for its mechanical purity and avant-garde spirit.

To showcase this micro-mechanical marvel, Zenith didn’t launch a single watch, but an entire family of models in 1969 built around its revolutionary new movement: the El Primero caliber. A true manifesto of creativity, this first collection alone expressed the diversity and mastery of the manufacture in Le Locle.

Among the first references were the A384, with its angular tonneau-shaped case and reverse panda dial, the A385 with its stunning gradient dial, and of course, the A386 — the most balanced of all, featuring a 38 mm round case and the now-legendary tri-color dial. Alongside them were the gold G381 and G582 references, more refined in spirit, and the rare open-worked G383 with its experimental design.

All shared the same beating heart — the 3019 PHC caliber — yet displayed distinct personalities: sporty for the A384, bold for the A385, elegant and timeless for the A386. This approach was unprecedented, showing that the El Primero was not only a technical achievement but also an aesthetic language capable of multiple expressions.

El Primero A386

A true ambassador of the El Primero caliber, the Zenith A386 best embodies the spirit of this horological revolution. Presented in 1969 alongside the other founding references, it stood out with its perfect balance of innovation and elegance, quickly becoming the ultimate icon of the collection.

Its 38 mm round case, with subtly beveled lugs, conveys timeless refinement, while its dial — a true aesthetic manifesto — broke away from the conventions of the time. Zenith dared to use color: three overlapping sub-dials in blue, gray, and silver, each dedicated to a specific chronograph function. This clear yet daring layout, now legendary, symbolized both the modernity of the El Primero and the forward-thinking spirit of the Le Locle manufacture.
Behind these three colored sub-dials lies a genuine philosophy of time:
– Gray for the hours, symbolizing endurance and the long term.
– Light for the seconds, representing the fleeting moment.
– Blue for the minutes, the chronograph’s central measure — the unit of action.
This poetic and functional color code became Zenith’s visual DNA for over half a century, revived through every generation of El Primero, from vintage to the modern Chronomaster.

The thin bezel, applied indexes, faceted straight hands, and bright red central chronograph hand complete a dial of exemplary legibility, where every detail serves functionality without sacrificing elegance. On the wrist, the A386 strikes a perfect balance — neither purely sporty nor overly formal, but universally harmonious, embodying that rare alliance between technical mastery and horological beauty.

The A386 directly inspired numerous models that carry its spirit forward — from the Striking Tenth (2010), the first watch to display tenths of a second over a full rotation of the dial, to the Chronomaster Sport (2021), a modern heir to its philosophy and design.

Today, the Zenith A386 remains one of the most sought-after watches of its era, both for its rarity — around 4,500 pieces produced between 1969 and 1972 — and for its central place in history: the watch that gave a face to one of the greatest movements ever created.

Our Example

A landmark among landmarks, our Zenith A386 belongs to the very first production series from 1969. It features a first-generation (MK1) case, recognizable by its lugs and caseback engraving below the 539Dxxx range — characteristics reserved for the first 500 examples leaving the manufacture. A rare detail that makes this watch highly desirable among discerning collectors.

Its original MK1 dial displays all the beauty and subtlety of the period design: long applied indexes, a sharp Zenith logo, and fine typography. The sub-dials retain their perfect balance, lightly aged by time without losing any legibility. The overall visual harmony is remarkable — that of a watch that has gracefully weathered the decades.

Over its lifetime, this A386 has received several service replacements during maintenance — a common practice for the brand. It is now fitted with second-generation (MK2) tritium hands, a service tachymeter scale, and a Zenith-signed service crown. These components are consistent and frequent among El Primeros of the era, typically replaced during official servicing to maintain reliability and water resistance.

This subtle blend of authenticity and lived history gives the watch a warm, even patina that reflects its preserved past without over-restoration. The case edges remain sharp, the bevels well-defined, and the proportions true to the original design. It’s a sincere and harmonious A386 with a rare presence — one that perfectly captures the spirit of the first El Primero: born to last, rich in history, and balanced in every sense.

Finally, our example is paired with a beautiful blue leather strap chosen to echo the hue of the chronograph’s signature sub-dial, and fitted with a Zenith pin buckle bearing the same star logo found on the crown — a coherent, elegant, and faithful ensemble to the model’s original spirit.

The Package

This Zenith A386 has benefited from a full service carried out by Zenith in 2023. It runs perfectly and is ready to be worn immediately.

It comes with a digital Watch Certificate™, accessible here — a genuine “horological passport” that certifies the watch’s authenticity, market value, and history, while providing tamper-proof traceability thanks to registration on the Blockchain.
The document also includes numerous photos of the watch from all angles, allowing you to appreciate every detail and its superb state of preservation.

In addition to its complete service by Zenith in 2023 and its certified Watch Certificate™, this A386 comes with a one-year Lepage Vintage warranty, ensuring flawless performance and total peace of mind for its next owner.

An iconic, certified, and guaranteed timepiece — ready to wear and enjoy. A true legend of watchmaking, to be worn with confidence.