Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM automatic Pure Orange USM dial steel bracelet 37 mm

DEFY Chronograph USM: A Tribute to Swiss Design

In 1969, Zenith marked a double milestone in its history: on one hand, the launch of the legendary El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph, and on the other, the introduction of the Defy, a sports watch nicknamed “the vault” for its robustness and revolutionary angular design. Two icons were born in the same year, each carrying an avant-garde spirit, but never before united in a single creation.

It is precisely this “what if?” that served as the starting point for the Zenith × USM capsule. What if the 1969 Defy had been conceived from the outset as an El Primero chronograph? And what if its aesthetics had intersected with those of USM Haller, the modular furniture system designed by architect Fritz Haller in the same decade, which has since become an absolute reference in Swiss industrial design?

From this exercise in alternate history emerges the DEFY Chronograph USM, a watch that never existed in the archives, yet feels as though it has always been there. By blending the geometric rigor of USM furniture with Zenith’s horological avant-garde, it embodies a shared vision: that of a functional, timeless, and forward-looking design that transcends decades without ever losing relevance.

Produced in just 60 examples per color, this limited edition does more than commemorate the golden age of Swiss creativity—it extends it, breathing new life into the free and daring spirit of the 1960s.

Retro-Futuristic Design

The DEFY Chronograph USM Pure Orange perfectly captures the bold spirit of the late 1960s. Its 37 mm stainless steel case, faithful to the historic proportions of the Defy, reprises the angular lines that earned it the “vault” nickname. Its octagonal silhouette, fourteen-sided bezel, and faceted edges naturally resonate with the geometric rigor of USM Haller furniture. The contrast between brushed surfaces and polished bevels highlights the volumes and accentuates the graphic impact of the design.

The pump-style chronograph pushers, typical of vintage models, recall the horological language of the 1960s while integrating seamlessly into the case. Water resistance to 100 meters confirms the Defy’s robust vocation, a watch built to endure and accompany daily life without compromise.

Equipped with the emblematic stainless steel “ladder” bracelet, designed by Gay Frères in 1969, the watch delivers remarkable comfort on the wrist thanks to its open-worked structure. This light yet solid architecture, which has become a signature of the Defy, directly echoes the modular and functional design principles of USM.

But it is the Pure Orange dial that gives this limited edition its flamboyant personality. Inspired by USM’s historic chromatic palette, this vivid, solar hue immediately captures attention. Applied square indexes with horizontal striations enhance the architectural impression of the piece, while the three silver-toned, azuré-finished subdials, framed in metal, subtly recall the spherical handles of USM modules.

Finally, as a discreet signature of the collaboration, the central chronograph seconds hand ends with a miniature luminous USM sphere. This playful detail encapsulates the project’s philosophy: a serious and precise watch, yet always infused with creativity and a sense of play.

El Primero 400 Movement

At the heart of the DEFY Chronograph USM beats the El Primero 400 calibre, a movement whose history is inseparably tied to Zenith and the evolution of modern watchmaking. Introduced in 1969, the El Primero was the first high-frequency automatic chronograph ever produced in series. With its cadence of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), it enabled measurement of time to a tenth of a second, setting a new standard of precision that remains a benchmark today.

The calibre 400, a direct descendant of the original 3019 PHC, preserves this legendary architecture: automatic winding, column wheel, horizontal clutch, and a subdial layout instantly recognizable to enthusiasts. It offers hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph with 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, central chronograph hand, as well as a discreet date at 4:30. Its 55-hour power reserve ensures everyday reliability and comfort.

Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, the movement reveals refined finishing: Côtes de Genève on the bridges and oscillating weight, the latter openworked into the Zenith star. For this special edition, the rotor is also adorned with the Zenith and USM logos, symbolizing the union of two Swiss universes bound by shared values: precision, rigor, and timeless design.

More than just a movement, the El Primero 400 is a true mechanical icon. By integrating it for the first time into the Defy Revival case, Zenith has created a hybrid object that never existed in the past but now feels as though it has found its natural home.

Highlights

Limited to just sixty examples, the DEFY Chronograph USM Pure Orange stands out as a rare and highly desirable creation. It embodies the meeting of two Swiss icons, Zenith and USM, who share a vision of precision, functionality, and timeless design. For the first time, the El Primero calibre finds its place in the Defy Revival case, giving life to a watch that feels at once unprecedented and perfectly natural within Zenith’s heritage.

Its distinctive aesthetics combine the graphic power of the 37 mm octagonal case and fourteen-sided bezel with the retro charm of pump pushers and the Gay Frères ladder bracelet. Yet it is above all the Pure Orange dial—bold, radiant, and energetic—that gives this edition its singular character. Drawn from USM’s historic chromatic palette, it symbolizes vitality and modernity. Every detail matters, from the central chronograph hand tipped with a luminous USM sphere to the dial’s architectural language inspired by modular furniture.

Presented in an exclusive USM Haller chest, conceived as a genuine modular furniture unit, the DEFY Chronograph USM Pure Orange transcends the status of a simple timepiece to become a statement object. It celebrates the creative audacity of the 1960s and embodies Swiss excellence, reinterpreted with a contemporary freshness.