IWC Portugieser Chronographe 41 mm automatic Full Set 2023

A brief history

Portuguese. All watch enthusiasts are familiar with this name. In 1939, IWC launched one of the most popular and iconic watches on the market, the “Portugieser.” Vasco da Gama, Bartolomeu Dias, Magellan... Portugal provided Europe with its greatest explorers and navigators. And yet, the origins of this timepiece's name have nothing to do with these great men. To understand the history of the Portugieser, we must go back to the 1930s when two Portuguese businessmen, Rodrigues and Teixeira, visited the premises of IWC, still known at the time as the International Watch Company, in Schaffhausen, with a surprising proposal: to develop a large steel wristwatch housing a movement capable of rivaling the precision of a marine chronometer. Perfect legibility and high precision: the only way to meet this demand was to integrate a pocket watch movement into a wristwatch.

To choose the right movement, IWC had the choice between the Lépine-type caliber 73 and the savonnette-type caliber 74. The Schaffhausen watchmakers opted for the savonnette because of its winding stem located at 3 o'clock, rather than at 12 o'clock as on almost all pocket watches. As a direct result, the case of the very first Portugieser measured 43 mm, a monster on the wrist for 1939 compared to other timepieces, which generally had diameters of 33 mm. Bucking the trend of the time, when small Art Deco-style pieces flooded the market, the Portugieser heralded the arrival of the oversized watches that are so fashionable today.

Let's get acquainted

Launched in 2020, the Portugieser Chronograph IW371604 is the direct descendant of the 3714 model, which entered the catalog in 1998. At first glance, little has changed—and that's what makes it so charming. The iconic design has been retained: a 41 mm steel case, a thin mirror-polished bezel, a perfectly balanced silver dial punctuated by applied gold Arabic numerals, matching leaf hands, and two discreet counters at 6 and 12 o'clock. The quarter-second graduated flange, a discreet nod to navigation instruments, remains faithful to the original spirit.

But this 3716 reference hides a decisive evolution. The Arabic numerals are no longer embossed but applied, giving the dial a subtle relief that is elegant in low light. The typography has also been revisited for a more refined and legible look. Finally, the chronograph pushers have been slightly redesigned, making them slimmer and more discreet than on the previous generation.

An in-house caliber under the hood

The big change in the 3716 model is what's inside. While the Portugieser line has always been popular for its timeless look, it has long relied on modified calibers based on the Valjoux 7750. These calibers are robust and proven, but do not necessarily meet the technical standards expected today of a chronograph of this stature. With the introduction of the 3716 model, IWC has corrected this detail and finally equipped its Portugieser with a genuine in-house movement, the IWC 69355 caliber.

Part of the in-house developed 69000 family, this movement was designed from the outset to fit perfectly into an elegant chronograph case without compromising on proportions. It is therefore not a modified base, but a caliber designed entirely for this type of watch, with a coherent architecture and optimized layout of functions.

The caliber 69355 is an automatic column wheel chronograph, guaranteeing clean, progressive, and precise chronograph starts. This mechanism is visible through the transparent case back and will appeal to enthusiasts of fine mechanics. The chronograph is coupled via an oscillating pinion, a technical choice consistent with the architecture of the movement and the positioning of the small seconds at 6 o'clock. While most modern chronographs prefer a vertical clutch, this system offers compactness, reliability, and visual consistency.

One of the major advantages of this caliber is its winding technology. IWC has opted for a bidirectional pawl system, similar to the Pellaton winding system developed by the company.

And that's not all: the 69355 caliber also incorporates components machined using LIGA technology, a lithographic microfabrication process that enables the production of extremely precise, lightweight, and resistant parts. This is particularly the case for the escape wheel and anchor, both of which are made of nickel-phosphorus. The result is a more stable, less wear-sensitive, and more efficient escapement, which directly contributes to the stability of the movement and improves the power reserve, which in this case is 46 hours.

The package

This IWC Portugieser Chronograph reference IW371604 is in excellent condition, both aesthetically and mechanically. It has been rigorously checked by our watchmakers before being put online to ensure its conformity and proper functioning.

It comes with its original case, complete manual, and warranty card dated 2023, activating the IWC 8-year international warranty. A recent piece, ready to set sail again on the wrist of a new discerning enthusiast.