Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” automatic leather strap 38 mm

Big Crown Pointer Date: an Oris icon since 1938

Created in 1938 to meet the demands of pilots, the Big Crown Pointer Date is one of the most emblematic models in Oris’ history. Designed to be highly legible and easy to operate in the unpressurised cockpits of the era, it immediately stood out thanks to its oversized crown, large Arabic numerals and a signature function: the date displayed by a central pointer hand, as intuitive as it is elegant.

Over the decades, the Big Crown Pointer Date has established itself as a true cornerstone of Oris’ DNA. It has accompanied the major milestones of the independent Hölstein-based brand, notably its decisive return to mechanical watchmaking after the quartz crisis, becoming the symbol of a sincere, functional and sustainable vision of Swiss horology. More than a simple collection model, it embodies a certain idea of watchmaking: useful, legible and timeless.

In 2025, Oris evolved the collection with the launch of the “New Big Crown”, a more contemporary and streamlined interpretation of the historic model. While this modernisation appealed to a new audience, it also raised questions among enthusiasts attached to the classic design. With the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye”, Oris responds to this expectation: the brand reaffirms its attachment to its roots and reassures its community by reviving one of the most emblematic aesthetics of its heritage.

The “Bullseye” dial: a historic design that stands the test of time

The “Bullseye” dial is not merely a stylistic exercise; it is an integral part of Oris’ history. The brand used this concentric design as early as the 1910s on certain pocket watches, before adapting it to wristwatches from the 1920s onwards. Appreciated for its legibility and graphic balance, this type of dial enjoyed a true golden age in the mid-20th century, before making a final appearance in 1998 and then disappearing from the catalogue… until today.

On this Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye”, Oris reinterprets this historic design with great accuracy. The dial is composed of perfectly structured concentric circles: a light-coloured outer ring displaying the date with red numerals, a railway-style minute track, a wide black ring punctuated by white Arabic numerals, and finally a light grey centre forming the heart of the dial. The result is an immediate, fluid and exceptionally well-balanced reading.

Beyond its visual impact, this dial stands out for its liveliness. Depending on the light, the shades of grey subtly evolve, shifting from cool tones to warmer reflections, enhancing the depth and character of the watch. The red accents — on the date scale and the tip of the central pointer hand — add a dynamic touch without ever compromising legibility, recalling the utilitarian vocation of the original model.

Now considered cult among collectors, the Bullseye dial emerges here as a perfect link between horological heritage and controlled modernity, confirming the iconic status of this Big Crown Pointer Date.

A 38 mm case with perfectly balanced neo-vintage proportions

With its 38 mm case, the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” adopts particularly well-judged proportions, faithful to the spirit of the historic models while meeting contemporary expectations. Often regarded as the sweet spot in watchmaking, this diameter offers an ideal balance between wrist presence, comfort and versatility, appealing equally to fans of neo-vintage watches and to modern wrists, whether masculine or feminine.

The stainless steel case reprises the emblematic codes of the collection. The coin-edge fluted bezel emphasises the utilitarian character of the model, while the oversized crown — a Big Crown signature since 1938 — ensures excellent grip and recalls its original aeronautical vocation. Alternating brushed and polished finishes add a touch of discreet refinement without ever betraying the functional DNA of the watch.

With a lug-to-lug length of 45.5 mm and a restrained thickness, the watch sits naturally on the wrist and becomes almost unnoticeable in daily wear. Water-resistant to 5 bar, it is perfectly suited to everyday use, whether in an urban setting or more casual situations. A versatility fully in keeping with the spirit of the tool watches that have made Oris’ reputation.

The Oris calibre 754: reliability, simplicity and coherence

At the heart of the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” beats the Oris calibre 754, an automatic movement renowned for its reliability and robustness. Based on the proven Sellita SW200-1 architecture, it is modified by Oris to integrate the collection’s emblematic complication: the centrally mounted pointer date, a historic signature of the model since 1938.

This calibre operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a power reserve of 41 hours, ensuring stable precision and comfortable everyday use. It also features a hacking seconds function for precise time setting, as well as efficient automatic winding.

The choice of this movement is part of a deliberately coherent approach. Oris favours a simple, reliable and easy-to-service mechanism, perfectly suited to the spirit of the Big Crown Pointer Date. This positioning makes it possible to offer an authentic Swiss mechanical watch, without compromising on quality, while keeping the price under control. The transparent caseback reveals the red Oris rotor, a visual signature that has become emblematic of the brand.

The strengths of the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye”

The Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” stands out as one of the most accomplished interpretations of this Oris icon. It successfully combines horological heritage, exemplary legibility and strong graphic design, while remaining faithful to the independent spirit that has driven the brand for more than a century.

Its historic Bullseye dial, now rare and highly sought after, gives it an instantly recognisable identity, while its 38 mm case offers ideal proportions for comfortable and versatile everyday wear. Powered by a reliable and proven automatic movement, it favours coherence and authenticity over technical ostentation.

Offered in regular production, the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” appeals both to Oris enthusiasts and to watch lovers seeking a sincere timepiece, rich in meaning and history, free from speculative intent. Thanks to its remarkable balance between heritage, design and price, it undoubtedly ranks among the most attractive Big Crown models in the current collection.