Zenith El Primero Sub Sea Pilot/Diver automatic 44 mm

Presentation

At the turn of the 1970s, Zenith was at a pivotal moment in its history. In 1969, the Le Locle manufacture made a major impact with the launch of the El Primero caliber, the first fully integrated automatic chronograph beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour — a technical feat that forever changed the face of watchmaking. But as quartz technology loomed large, Zenith chose to persevere with mechanical innovation, imagining bold, sporty watches that could showcase the superior performance of its in-house movement.

It was in this context that the Pilot/Diver series was born, produced between 1972 and 1975 — a family of large, versatile chronographs designed as true instruments of navigation. These models, named after their bezel style (aviation or diving), represented a unique experiment in Zenith’s history: a hybrid between an aviator’s chronograph and a professional diver’s watch.

Their philosophy was clear: to create a tool capable of doing it all — timing a transatlantic flight as easily as accompanying a deep-sea dive. A watch for adventurers, engineers, pilots, and divers — for those who live life to the rhythm of time itself.

An avant-garde design

The 44 mm stainless steel tonneau case immediately sets the tone. At a time when 38 mm watches were already considered large, this Sub Sea Pilot/Diver stood out as an oversized, uncompromising chronograph. Its taut, aerodynamic lines reflect the 1970s taste for industrial and futuristic design. Alternating polished and brushed surfaces, the case features an integrated profile with solid lugs — a guarantee of robustness and visual balance.

With water resistance rated at 300 meters and a dual-gasket construction, this hybrid case design made the watch unique: neither a pure diver nor a standard pilot’s chronograph, but a technical instrument capable of excelling in both environments. The watches from this generation were mounted on the famous “lobster” bracelet, recognizable by its overlapping articulated links, offering remarkable comfort and fluidity — a hallmark of 1970s high-end sports watchmaking.

Versions as rare as they are fascinating

Produced for only three years, the Zenith Pilot/Diver El Primero remained a confidential model, with total production estimated at fewer than 2,500 pieces across all variations.

Zenith offered several configurations, mainly distinguished by their bezel type: some featured 12-hour scales, others 60-minute diving bezels, allowing the watch to adapt to different environments and uses.

A handful of more unusual versions appeared, including one with a sapphire display back, produced in just fifty units.

All shared the same DNA: a design inspired by the space age, a suspended movement for shock absorption, and a clear, utilitarian purpose.

A watch at the crossroads

Visually, the 01.0190.415 stands out with its matte black dial, tone-on-tone subdials, and crisp white printing ensuring excellent legibility. The peripheral tachymeter scale and bidirectional 12-hour bezel make it possible to measure speeds or track a second time zone — everything about the dial speaks of functionality.

The tritium indices have aged beautifully, gaining a warm, even patina that enhances the watch’s vintage character. The blue chronograph seconds hand adds a subtle dash of color, true to Zenith’s style, while the discreet date at 4:30 maintains symmetry without disturbing readability.

On the wrist, the watch surprises with its comfort despite the generous proportions. The tonneau case naturally hugs the wrist, and the integrated bracelet construction enhances the feeling of balance and unity.
It asserts presence without arrogance — a true engineer’s watch, made for enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.

A legendary heart: the El Primero 3019 PHC caliber

Inside beats one of the most celebrated movements in horological history: the Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC, the first fully integrated, high-frequency automatic chronograph. Introduced in 1969, it beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, allowing 1/10th of a second precision — a milestone that remains impressive even today.

Equipped with a column wheel and horizontal clutch, this caliber combines reliability, precision, and smooth operation. With a 50-hour power reserve, it perfectly embodies Zenith’s philosophy: the relentless pursuit of perfect chronometry.

An overlooked icon rediscovered

Upon release, the Pilot/Diver 01.0190.415 did not meet commercial success. Too large for its time, too costly for a “tool watch,” it broke conventions. Yet with hindsight, it represents everything collectors now love about vintage watches: boldness, originality, and mechanical excellence.

Each surviving example bears witness to Zenith’s creative spirit during one of its most experimental eras. An underappreciated icon, the Pilot/Diver 01.0190.415 now stands as one of the most forward-thinking chronographs of its generation — a watch ahead of its time that foreshadowed the design and engineering of modern El Primero models.

The package

This 1970s Zenith El Primero Pilot/Diver is presented in excellent overall condition, a testament to the care it has received over the years. It has undergone a full inspection in our workshop, including a complete service and fine movement adjustment, ensuring perfect functionality.

The watch comes with its original box and manual — a rare find for a piece of this era.
Please note: the watch features a service bezel and hands fitted by Zenith, preserving its authenticity and aesthetic harmony.

It retains its original “lobster” stainless steel bracelet, in very good condition, emblematic of Zenith chronographs from the 1970s and prized for its exceptional comfort.

As with all watches in our Lepage Vintage selection, this Sub Sea Pilot/Diver has been meticulously inspected by our watchmakers and comes with a one-year Lepage guarantee — a promise of reliability and peace of mind for its future owner.

A rare, complete, and authentic timepiece, ready to take flight once more — a brilliant testament to Zenith’s expertise and the mechanical genius of the El Primero.