Seiko Presage "Craftsmanship - Unglazed Arita Porcelain" automatic white dial leather strap 40,6 mm

Heritage & Collection

The story of the Seiko Presage SPB497 is rooted in two major Japanese traditions: precision watchmaking and the centuries-old art of Arita porcelain. Since 1616, this small town on the island of Kyūshū has been renowned for its porcelain of exceptional finesse, prized in both Japan and Europe. Its deep whiteness, delicate motifs, and durability quickly established Arita as a major center of craftsmanship, on par with the world’s great hubs of ceramics.

On its side, the Presage collection has established itself since 2016 as the laboratory where Seiko showcases Japanese traditions. Urushi lacquer, cloisonné enamel, Shippo enamel, or Edo silk: each creation tells a cultural as well as horological story. In 2019, the first Arita porcelain dials were integrated into the collection, offering a watchmaking interpretation of this ancestral material.

With the SPB497, Seiko takes an unprecedented step: the dial is no longer glazed but left raw, unglazed. This approach gives birth to a matte, powdery texture that reveals a warm, organic white. Where glaze reflects light with a smooth, glossy brilliance, the unglazed surface absorbs reflections and diffuses a soft, tactile impression. This evolution is more than an aesthetic choice: it represents a desire to renew the visual language of porcelain in watchmaking by exploring its most understated and natural dimension.

The raised rhombus motif around the indexes reinforces this aesthetic choice. Inherited from traditional Arita decoration, it symbolizes prosperity and health and demonstrates the importance of symbolism in Japanese art. Each dial requires significant expertise: a specially formulated porcelain blend, more than four times harder than traditional ceramic, is molded, fired, and finished with extreme precision to preserve the relief and sharpness of the design.

Under the supervision of master craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi, these dials are crafted by Toshiaki Kawaguchi and his team, perpetuating a four-century-old tradition while adapting it to contemporary requirements.

Limited to only 1,200 pieces worldwide, the SPB497 is more than just a collector’s piece. It embodies the philosophy of the Presage line: to make the encounter between Japanese artistry and horological precision accessible to a wider audience.

Design & Aesthetics

While artisanal heritage forms the soul of the SPB497, it is its singular aesthetic that immediately captures attention. At first glance, the watch exudes a sense of minimalist purity, but a closer look reveals a wealth of detail that reflects the meticulous care behind its creation.

The unglazed Arita porcelain dial is the true focal point. Its matte, powdery texture offers a unique visual and tactile presence in the world of watchmaking. Unlike earlier Presage porcelain dials, glossy and smooth, this surface absorbs light and diffuses it in a soft, velvety manner. The white is not cold but warm, evoking the natural purity of raw clay.

Around the applied indexes unfolds a delicately embossed diamond motif. Anchored in Japanese aesthetic tradition, this design is not purely ornamental: it carries symbolic meaning, associated with prosperity, longevity, and health. Thanks to the unglazed technique, the ridges of this motif appear sharper and more distinct, enhancing the dial’s depth and imparting a rare three-dimensional impression.

The leaf-shaped hands and gold-colored indexes create a subtle contrast with the matte white background. The choice of gold is deliberate: it brings refined, almost timeless elegance while highlighting the artisanal nature of the piece. The slender central seconds hand features a crescent moon counterweight, a poetic signature of the Presage line, adding a discreet touch of motion and fluidity to the dial.

The 40.6 mm stainless steel case, reinforced with a super-hard coating, blends tradition and modernity. Its simple, rounded lines showcase the dial without overshadowing it. At only 12.5 mm thick, the watch maintains a balanced, wearable profile, equally elegant with a suit or a more casual outfit. Alternating polished and brushed finishes on the case add sophistication, while the knurled crown at 3 o’clock ensures smooth handling.

Protected by a dual-curved sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating, the dial reveals its full richness from every angle, the curvature amplifying the visual depth of the diamond motif. On the back, a see-through screw caseback reveals the 6R51 caliber and its gold-colored oscillating weight, an aesthetic detail that ties in beautifully with the hands and indexes.

The watch is completed with a glossy black leather strap certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG), ensuring responsible and sustainable sourcing. Its three-fold push-button clasp combines security and comfort, underscoring Seiko’s commitment to making a timepiece as pleasant to wear as it is to admire.

The SPB497 thus achieves a rare balance: marrying a deeply Japanese aesthetic, rooted in the art of porcelain, with contemporary and functional watchmaking construction. More than a watch, it presents itself as a miniature work of art for the wrist.

Movement & Performance

While the aesthetics of the SPB497 embody the delicacy and poetry of Japanese art, its mechanical heart reflects the technical rigor and robustness that have made Seiko’s reputation.

This limited edition is powered by the 6R51 caliber, a recent evolution of the 6R family of movements, specially developed to offer a cleaner, more symmetrical configuration. Unlike the 6R55 from which it is derived, the 6R51 removes the date display, allowing for a perfectly balanced dial that remains true to the collection’s classic spirit. This decision, far from trivial, illustrates the pursuit of both aesthetic purity and functional simplicity, serving an experience of timeless readability.

Technically, the caliber runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), striking a balance between reliability and longevity. It relies on 24 jewels and delivers a 72-hour power reserve, or three full days. Practically, this means one can set the watch aside on a Friday evening and find it still running smoothly on Monday morning — a convenience appreciated by collectors and everyday wearers alike.

The 6R51 benefits from the innovations of the new 6R generation: optimized construction to reduce friction, a bidirectional oscillating weight ensuring efficient winding, and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m, protecting the movement from the electromagnetic fields of modern devices (smartphones, computers, connected speakers, etc.). This added resilience makes it a movement designed not only to endure but also to integrate seamlessly into contemporary life.

In terms of accuracy, Seiko specifies a tolerance of –15 to +25 seconds per day, a realistic margin for an automatic caliber in this category. In practice, many owners report more stable performance, reflecting the consistency and rigor of Seiko’s manufacturing standards.

Through the see-through caseback, the wearer can admire the gold-toned rotor, decorated with a discreet pattern and perfectly resonating with the golden indexes and hands of the dial. Though ornamental, this detail underscores the aesthetic coherence of the watch and reminds us that Seiko, even in its more accessible ranges, takes care to unite beauty and function.

In short, the 6R51 caliber is not merely a reliable and efficient engine: it embodies the very philosophy of the Presage collection. A precise, durable, and modern mechanism, serving an exceptional artisanal dial, granting the SPB497 a perfect balance between traditional artistry and horological innovation.

Limited Edition & Positioning

The Seiko Presage SPB497 is not just an aesthetic variation, but a commemorative piece that perfectly illustrates the philosophy of the Presage collection: uniting Japan’s finest craftsmanship with contemporary mechanical watchmaking. Limited to just 1,200 pieces worldwide, it stands out as a watch both exclusive and universal in its message: to preserve and transmit heritage.

The central element of this edition is, of course, its unglazed Arita porcelain dial, a first in Seiko’s history. The choice of this material, crafted through a complex artisanal process under the supervision of master Hiroyuki Hashiguchi and his disciple Toshiaki Kawaguchi, demonstrates the brand’s commitment to supporting traditional Japanese skills while adapting them to modern watchmaking requirements. Each dial undergoes a succession of molding and firing stages, requiring precision and patience, in order to achieve a strength more than four times greater than that of traditional porcelain.